Jonathan Siegrist climbing ADATO at Horne Lake

• by bcclimbing Fri, 11 May 2012 08:34:05 -0700

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Cuba closes its doors to climbing

• by bcclimbing Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:27:42 -0800

Cuba has closed it doors to climbing in the mountains of Viñales National Park, home of about 80 percent of the established routes. Some climbers are getting around the restrictions by climbing after the Park Rangers get off work or on Sundays, when the Rangers have the day off. This not only applies to climbing, but also mountain biking and caving. You can go on hikes, but they must be with a official guide. 

For more info, check out http://www.cubaclimbing.com/climbing/permitsaccess

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Stanhope & McSorley team up with Honnold in Baja, Mexico

• by bcclimbing Fri, 03 Feb 2012 09:25:54 -0800

Squamish locals Will Stanhope and Paul McSorley have teamed up with Alex Honnold for a pair of asents down south in Baja, Mexico. Along with freeing the Pan-American Route on El Gran Trono Blanco, Alex Honnold established a new route 'El Giraffe Libre' a 11 pitch route with two 5.13 pitches and six 5.11 or 5.12 pitches. 

For more details see climbing.com

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Jason Kruk & Hayden Kennedy climb the Compressor Route

• by bcclimbing Wed, 25 Jan 2012 20:15:38 -0800

Last week Jason Kruk (Squamish) and his climbing partner Hayden Kennedy climbed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia. They made a fast ascent traveling from the 'Col of Patience' to the top in 13 hours. They climbed the route by "fair means", excluded Maestri's bolt ladders. The last pitch was completed by penduluming over to a number of discontinuous features to the left.

Cerro Torre's disputed first ascent was accomplished in 1959 by Cesare Maestri. Eleven years after Maestri's alleged ascent, he returned with a air compressor to power his drill and establish the Compressor Route, an over-bolted climb up the face. This over-bolting of the face prompted legendary Slovene climber Silvo Karo to declare that "[the climb] was stolen from the future. Without all those bolts the history of that marvelous mountain would have been very different. I am convinced that in alpinism how you have climbed is more important than what you have climbed, and I have no doubt that the best are those that leave the least amount of stuff behind."

The Compressor Route has been plagued with controversy and it seems that controversy will continue. On their way down the route, Kruk and Kennedy chopped the bolts placed by Maestri. Reports say that when they arrived at the base they were confronted by local and were taken to the police station to give a statement. For there actions Kruk and Kennedy have received both praise and anger from a divided climbing community.

Jason Kruk has written a piece about their ascent on climbing.com

Colin Haley weighs in on the discussion of chopping the bolts.

Article by David Roberts and Kathryn Sall that appeared on National Geographic Adventure.

A blog post by Kelly Cordes of Patagonia.

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The Knuckle Basher Ice Fest - Canmore, Alberta

• by bcclimbing Wed, 30 Nov 2011 10:50:25 -0800

If you love ice climbing and want to check out a great event, the Knuckle Basher Ice Fest will be happening this year in February. 

• February 11-13, 2012
• Canmore, Alberta

Stay tuned to what's happening on their website at www.knucklebasher.com

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Sean McColl's Winning Climb at the WC Kranj 2011

• by bcclimbing Fri, 25 Nov 2011 10:16:51 -0800

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Sean McColl takes Gold at the World Cup

• by bcclimbing Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:31:56 -0800

North Vancouver climber Sean McColl took home a gold metal at the World Cup this past Sunday, November 20th.

You can read more about it on his blog at: http://seanmccoll.com/2011/11/gold-kranj

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Crag X Movember Bouldering Competition

• by bcclimbing Tue, 22 Nov 2011 14:37:14 -0800

Crag X in Victoria is throwing a Movember Community Boudering Competition on Sunday November 27, 2011.

Bring your mustache, shoes, and donation entry fee and they will sort you out with some great boulder problems, beer and sausages at the Moon Under Water Pub and Brewery. 

• Sunday November 27, 2011
• Doors Open 10:00 am.
• 10:00-11:00 Registration and Add On Competition
• 11:00- 1:00 Novice (V1-V2) Competition
• 11:00- 1:00 Intermediate (V2-V5) Competition

For direction to Crag X check out their page at http://bcclimbing.com/gyms/crag-x

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Trotter and Stanhope finish off The Prophet, 5.13d R

• by bcclimbing Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:42:10 -0800

Five weeks of hard work has finally paid off. Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope have climbed The Prophet in Yosemite. The route was consists of 13 pitches and saw it's first free ascent by Leo Houlding last year. The route is one of Yosemites boldest and hardest free climbs going at 5.13 R.

http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12317-sonnie-trotter-and-will-stanhope-climb-yosemites-prophet-513d

Here's a video of Leo on the route last year.

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Vancouver Island Climbing Competitions

• by bcclimbing Thu, 17 Nov 2011 14:11:03 -0800

There are two climbing competitions happening in the next few months on Vancouver Island. 

The first competition is a roped climbing competition happening on the new world class lead wall at The Boulders Climbing Gym. 

• Climbing Competition
• December 10th, 2011
• 7:30am start
• $60 entry
• $10 discount if you register by December 1st
• For more information: http://www.climbtheboulders.com/boulder-competition

The second competition is a 80's spandex themed competition, which should prove to be entertaining. It's happening at Crag X in Victoria.

• Bouldering Competition
• January 29th, 2012
• 10am start
• $30 entry
• 5 categories
• For more information: http://cragx.ca/spandex/

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