About

If you like bouldering on solid granitic rock, Sutton Creek, on Vancouver Island, is definitely a place to check out. The boulders are a short drive between Port Alberni and Tofino, and with only 30-second approaches are very accessible. There are over 45 established problems and at least 100 more waiting to be climbed. The climbing varies from slopers, crimps, heel hooks, dynos etc.... Many of the problems are gently overhanging with sloping mantle top-outs.

The rock dries fast because of the south aspect and the exposed sunny boulders.

Directions

The boulders are impossible to miss because they are on the side of the road on the way to Tofino. Starting in Port Alberni at the 3-way intersection on highway 4, turn right and drive towards Tofino for 41km to reach the obvious boulders on the right (north) side of the road. A useful landmark if your odometer isn't working is the Taylor River Rest Area. The boulders are 1.5km past this rest area.

History

Bouldering began in Sutton Creek in 2002 when Nick Korvin, Carman Gibson and Mike Waters checked out the obvious boulder field beside the highway on the way to Tofino. Nick had been to the boulders on several previous occasions and had cleaned off a few problems. With further trips to the boulders more and more possibilities for problems appeared. That summer two stand out problems were established: Aces High and Bad Girl. 2003 was the first full year of bouldering with many good problems discovered and climbed. Excellent Adventure, Heeling Hands, Rock Dog and Tombstone were established. 2004 was another good year with the classics Butter Fingers, Booch and Finger Meat and the high ball Carpenter being cleaned and climbed. In 2005 a difficult sit down start to Booch was established, as well as many more easy to moderate problems.

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